It's been quite the busy week. I sowed Nanosh and Jenna around the city for a couple days, then rested up for a day before coming to Maputo. Unfortunately, that rest day quickly and unwittingly became a drinking day due to the double American presence.
We ended up eating dinner at a friend of mine's house - again unwittingly - and being forced to get pleasantly drunk. It was forced, of course, because I was planning on getting up at 5 AM the next morning. As it had been quite late getting in the night before, I woke myself up a little past 6, drank a ton of water and got on the bus for Maputo. I doubt Nanosh woke up before I got into Maputo yesterday.
(By the way, his name is pronounced NAN-ush.) THIS IS MOM -- actually, what I filled in as a "u" is really the upside down "e", which I can't type in.
One of the things that truly surprised me about his arrival is how much it's changed my relationships with others here - instantaneously - and how much I have to learn from him.
There's something about freshly arriving in a strange place that brings extra optimism and energy. There's a certain necessary naivete that is wonderful to see, for someone who's lost most of that. I'm really not that curious about where I live, the people I know. But I think he's showing me that I should be.
Also, since the way people treat me has changed, I suppose realizing that Blake's essentially out of the house and I'm the key to getting to know the Americans now, getting to know others is infinitely easier.
Hopefully, that will continue when I get back, too.
So now I'm sitting on the most expensive street in Maputo, staring at the unfortunately brown bay. I've been running around the city, trying to change my meticais into Euros, which is easier said than done. This being the holidays, practically nobody has any, and yesterday I only managed to find one quarter of what I needed. I went to about two dozen cambios, and finally found it today. Though I was preoccupied the entire time with how much money I had on me, it was a good way to see more of the city. It's got a ton of potential and some already well-developed and fun areas, but the culture is so incredibly different than in the rest of the country, that it's not so much a capital as it is a bridge to the rest of the world. I suppose it won't be as shocking to leave after being here for two days. But the temperature (in Portugal) is going to kill me.
On Wednesday, it got to 110 F. It wasn't that unbearable for me. But I'm going to be in weather that will not even get to half that. I've packed everything warm that I own, and I'm planning on using my capulana pants as long underwear. It's gonna be somethin'...
My thoughts often come back to life one year ago and life one year from now, because that's what I really have to hold onto. One year ago I was eating meals with Diamentino in my new house, talking with and getting to know many people, in between studying 3-4 hours every day, the language I was to teach in.
Today, I'm perfectly comfortable in that house, city and country that was still so new, and next year at this time, I'll be leaving it, to eventually do something I'm not yet familiar with and have skills and accomplishments that I am familiar with. Which raises the question, what the hell am I going to do?
I've often thought of being a social worker, high-school teacher, actor, and more, but none of those seem to have a stranglehold on my desires. It's as if I feel I can't make a decision until something grabs me and doesn't let go - because I know I'll put my all into it and be happy doing so. Can I balance all that I want to do into this? Probably not. So I have to find something I want to do that is less than perfect and make peace with that.
There's still so much to decide.
Sunset seems to be the clearest reminder that we live on a rock spinning several thousand miles per hour, as the sun disappears from view in a matter of moments and a day suddenly ends. Given how long the day lasts, it seems strange that our star would want it to end so quickly - but now that we know exactly what's going on, it seems that the earth is in a hurry to keep things moving, for it has to leave half of its surface in the dark.
I tried to really feel gravity today. It sounds like a strange mephloquine-induced state, but walking downhill at one point, I felt it. It was irresistible as my foot was attracted to the ground, step after step.
I guess I've had a lot of time to think lately, which is good. Before, I was decompressing by being busy and winding down. I'm getting to the stage where I can sit down with nothing to do for several hours and not be bored or feel like I should be doing anything. Because I know I've done a lot and I will do a lot. And it's very Western to evaluate myself in terms of what I do rather than the relationships I have.
I walked into an Ethiopian restaurant this afternoon, unaware of what to expect. I said "Hi" to the waiter and explained this, asking what he would get, etc. We talked about how good piri-piri is and a few other things. Every time he came over, we added a little to the conversation, and by the end, I felt like the 10 metacais tip (about 40 cents) was ridiculous. I think he knew it too, but was glad to have conversed with me (as I, him) and took this from the meal. Maybe he'll even recognize me the next time.
By the same token, on Wednesday I met someone from Jake's site who had apparently met me at a party there. He opened the conversation with "You don't remember me, do you?" and I had to admit that I didn't.
This happens a lot.
Where I met him was a busy party with 100-200 people, most of whom I'd never met and didn't end up talking to.
This, too, happens a lot.
But as I was one of the few white people, recognizable as we are, both at the party and in town, I stand out. And I don't quite understand why people don't understand that point - but it's behind the very question.
I think I'll look back on this time wiht necessary sentimentality, especially when it comes to being a big fish in a small pond.
Over the past two days in Maputo, I've randomly seen three people I already knew, or who just happened to know me. I tried to buy cashews from a vegetable stand, then 50 feet later (at out of earshot), a cashew vendor sought me out.
So what's going to hit me about Portugal? I've tried to anticipate as little as possible, but I already know that being in the first world will be quite strange.
Peace
John
